Hangnails and dry, flaky cuticles: how to stop them catching and coming back

A hangnail beside cuticle nippers and a Body Collective nail serum pen

Hangnails are strips of dry skin that tear at the side of the nail, because the skin there has dried out and lost its stretch. Clip a hangnail close with clean nippers and never pull it. While the skin recovers, oil your cuticles twice a day, and seal with a thicker balm at night in winter.

  • A hangnail is dry skin that has torn. Clip it close with clean nippers and never pull it.
  • While the skin recovers, oil your cuticles twice a day, then seal with a thicker balm at night, especially in winter.
  • Picking keeps the skin sore, so it keeps catching.
  • Red, hot, swollen or throbbing skin needs a GP, not more picking.

Why do hangnails happen?

Hangnails happen because the skin beside the nail has dried out, lost its stretch and split, and water, picking and winter are the usual reasons.

Every time your hands go in and out of water the skin swells and dries, and cold, dry air and heated rooms pull out even more moisture. Then a small tear starts, and a small tear at the side of the nail runs down like a ladder in tights. Pulling at it, or biting it, only makes the tear longer. Sound familiar? Here's the whole routine on one page, and then we'll take it step by step.

A three step diagram for hangnails: clip it clean and never pull it, oil the cuticles twice a day, and seal with a balm at night in winter.
The whole routine at a glance: clip it clean, oil the cuticles, seal with a balm at night in winter.

How do you remove a hangnail safely, and why does pulling make it worse?

Clip it close with clean, sharp nippers and never pull it, because a pulled hangnail tears a longer strip further down into live skin.

That's the sore, bleeding result you're trying to avoid. Here's how I'd do it:

  1. Clean your hands and the nippers. You're working next to broken skin, so start clean.
  2. Soften the skin first. Do it after a shower or after oiling, when the skin gives.
  3. Clip only the lifted bit. Cut across the base of the loose strip and leave the skin that's still attached.
  4. Oil straight afterwards. That keeps the clipped edge soft so it doesn't catch again.
  5. If it bleeds a little, rinse it and cover it with a plaster. Don't squeeze it.
Hands applying the Body Collective nail serum pen
Clip only the loose strip, right at its base, and leave the attached skin alone.

I know the pull is tempting, so here's the honest version:

Myth: It's quicker to just pull it off.

Fact: Pulling is quicker for about a second. The strip it tears is longer, and the sore patch it leaves takes far longer to settle than a clean clip would.

What is the oil then balm routine for dry cuticles?

Oil first, then a thicker balm on top to seal it in: that second layer is called an occlusive.

While the skin recovers, oil your cuticles and the skin at the sides of your nails twice a day, morning and night, and once it has settled, once a day is plenty. At night in winter, add a plain, thick balm from the chemist over the top. If your hands are in water a lot, oil again after you dry them. There's more on winter hands in taking care of your nails this winter.

I used my serum on my own clients for years before I offered it to anyone else, and the oil step is where the Nail Growth and Strength Serum pen earns its place. A new pen can take 20 to 40 clicks to fill the first time, so don't panic if nothing happens straight away. After that, one click a day covers ten nails. The bigger cuticle picture is in why cuticle care matters and how a nail serum can help.

Here's the short version:

Do

  • Oil morning and night while the skin recovers, and after hand washing when you can
  • Wear gloves for dishes and cleaning
  • Add a thick balm at night in winter

Don't

  • Pull, tear or bite a hangnail
  • Cut the cuticle itself
  • Leave your hands wet and unprotected all day

How do you stop picking the skin around your nails?

Picking the skin around your nails is usually a habit rather than a decision, and you stop it by giving the habit less to catch on and something else to do.

Rough skin gets picked, picked skin turns sore, and sore skin gets picked again. Smooth, oiled skin breaks the loop at the first step. Keep your nippers and your oil where you pick, whether that's the couch, the car or the desk, so a rough edge gets clipped and oiled instead of torn. If you bite as well, how to stop biting your nails as an adult is worth a read.

What if the skin around a nail is red, swollen or sore?

If the skin around a nail is red, hot, swollen or throbbing, it needs a GP, not more attention from you.

Leave it alone, don't squeeze or pick at it, and keep it clean until you can be seen.

If it came on suddenly, hurts, is discoloured, thickened or lifting, see a GP, dermatologist or podiatrist.

How long until hangnails stop?

Give the routine a fortnight before you judge it, because the skin stops splitting as it stays soft.

Most people notice softer cuticles within days. Results vary, and winter can slow things down. Here's roughly how it goes:

Day 1
Clip any lifted skin cleanly, then oil.
Within days
Most people notice softer cuticles.
About a fortnight
Time to judge. The skin should be splitting less. If hangnails keep coming back, look again at water, picking and winter.

If you'd like the oil step sorted, the pen is below.

Body Collective Nail Growth, Strength and Repair Serum twist pen

Nail Growth, Strength & Repair Serum | Easy Twist Pen

A$16.95

A twist pen that lives in your bag, so the oil step actually happens, hand blended on the Gold Coast.

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Sweet almond oil is a nut derived oil; people with nut allergies should talk to their doctor first.

Questions about hangnails

How do I stop getting hangnails?

Keep the skin soft and keep your hands off it. While the skin recovers, oil your cuticles twice a day, seal with a thicker balm at night in winter, wear gloves for wet jobs, and clip any lifted skin cleanly instead of pulling or picking it. Most people notice softer cuticles within days. Results vary.

Should you cut or pull a hangnail?

Cut it, never pull it. Clip the lifted piece of dead skin close with clean, sharp nippers. Pulling tears a longer strip into live skin, which is sore and invites more picking. Oil afterwards. If the skin is red, hot, swollen or throbbing, see a GP.

What is the best thing for dry cuticles?

Oil, then a thicker balm on top at night when the weather is dry. While the skin recovers, twice a day is a good rhythm. The oil softens the skin and the balm seals it in. A pen of oil is easy to keep in your bag, and gloves for wet jobs stop the skin drying out again. Most people notice softer cuticles within days.

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